The first cool evenings of October carry a particular fragrance in Croatia’s hills and coastal valleys. It’s a scent of damp earth and woodsmoke, of leaves just starting to crisp—and of chestnuts ripening in their spiky green shells.
Picture a winding road through Opatija's Riviera. Mist drifts in from the Adriatic as you climb toward the old town of Lovran, where chestnut trees—known locally as maruni—have grown for centuries. Here, families still head out at dawn to gather the glossy brown treasures hidden in the undergrowth. By the time the sun breaks through, the town square is already alive with music, the snap of roasting fires, and the promise of Marunada—and in 2025 it’s especially festive, celebrating its 50th anniversary (Lovran 10–12 Oct 2025; Dobreć 18–19 Oct; Liganj 25–26 Oct).
Travel inland and the scenery changes but the rhythm remains. Along the wooded slopes of Banovina, the river Una curls around the charming town of Hrvatska Kostajnica. Each October, villagers and visitors fill the streets for their beloved Kestenijada (10 - 12 Oct), the air thick with the scent of freshly roasted chestnuts and mulled wine while folk dancers in traditional dress keep time with the beat of tamburica music.
Further south, Dubovac Castle watches over Karlovac. Its stone walls echo with laughter during the local Kestenijada (13 Oct), where children chase one another between stalls of chestnut cakes and steaming cups of cocoa. In Sveti Ivan Zelina near Zagreb (18 – 19 Oct) and the hilltop town of Oprtalj in Istria (19 Oct), small squares glow under lantern light as neighbours trade family recipes for chestnut purée and liqueur.
Chestnuts aren’t just delicious—they’re nourishing. Naturally gluten-free and lower in fat than most nuts, they’re packed with complex carbohydrates for slow-release energy, fibre for digestion, and minerals such as potassium and magnesium. Fresh chestnuts even carry a surprising dose of vitamin C. Roasted over open flames or turned into creamy soups and sweets, they offer warmth and gentle sweetness that feel tailor-made for crisp autumn days.
These golden-brown jewels also play an unexpected role in travel. By drawing visitors well beyond the summer beach season, chestnut festivals keep Croatia’s towns vibrant into late October. Hotels stay open, family farms sell their harvests, and local artisans showcase traditional music, dance, and crafts—proof that the country’s allure doesn’t end with the last swim of August.
To wander these festivals is to experience more than food. It’s to walk forest paths carpeted with russet leaves, to share a warm paper cone of roasted chestnuts with strangers who soon become friends, and to discover how deeply nature and tradition intertwine in this country.
So if you find yourself in Croatia as summer fades, follow the scent of woodfire and the shimmer of copper leaves. From the Adriatic coast to the green heart of the mainland, the chestnut trail will lead you to music, laughter, and the unmistakable taste of autumn itself.
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