At the junction of Ferhadija and Marsala Titova streets, the Eternal Flame and cupola behind it commemorates the partisans who fought in WWII. It’s nice, and in a focal part of town, but it needs a brush-and-scrub, a bit of doing-up and a couple of smartly-uniformed police officers on guard duty to give tough and short shrift to the tedious Roma children that beg nearby.