Ostrow Tumski

Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, Ostrów Tumski is the gem at the centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, after all, is where the city began. During the latter part of the 9th century what is now known as Ostrów Tumski (the name means 'Cathedral Island' in Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the Śleżanie, who – not without reason – considered the island impregnable. For a thorough history lesson you may want to view the scale model of Ostrow Tumski's earliest incarnation over in the Archaelogical Museum (ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, A-2).

The first Silesian bishopric was built on the island in 1000, and the town flourished until its almost total destruction during the Tatar invasions of the 1240s. After that date the town developed on the other side of the Odra river, and Ostrów Tumski became a place of almost exclusively royal – the Piast Dynasty built a castle here in the 1260s - and religious significance. With a few exceptions it remains primarily a place of worship and reflection to this day; there are few shops, dwellings, cafes and restaurants, and the Wrocław Archdiocese occupies almost all of the beautifully maintained classical buildings you will see.

The first thing the modern visitor notices however about Ostrów Tumski is that, though accessed from central Wrocław by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until the 19th century, but persistent flooding led town planners to fill in one of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (not that that has prevented further flooding). Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek, perhaps the real joy of Ostrów Tumski is its other-worldly feel. ul. Katedralna and ul. Idziego both provide cobbled reminders of the past - Idziego especially, though it lacks the in-your-face sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit today by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll.

But we are getting ahead of ourselves. A visit to this lovely, peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins at Most Piaskowy (Sand Bridge). This is the oldest bridge in Wrocław, built in 1861 and an engineering marvel, if no great shakes on the architectural front. The original bridge, built back in the 11th century, was part of the ancient trade route - the Amber Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to Vienna, and thence to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the Baroque and sadly graffiti-strewn University Library, and the Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous for its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern nave. From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski (Tumski Bridge) leads you across to the oldest part of the city; look out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig), Silesia's patron saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocław's patron, at the head of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks placed on the bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the unbreakable bond they share going forward in life together.