History really is king in Debrecen. Hungary’s second-largest city is chock-full with reminders of its influential past, with the ‘Calvinist Rome’ nickname not just for window dressing. This is a city not afraid to wear its spiritual heart on its sleeve, a town unashamedly proud of where it has been and where it is going. Religious history is far from the minds of those who wander through Debrecen’s Great Forest however, a mass of verdant scenery that is as close to heaven as anything you’ll find in the country.