If you've never eaten cuisine from this part of the world, Lemar may be an ideal first experience as the wait staff are friendly and helpful and the food is nothing short of fantastic. Try the quabelli palau ba kababe morgh (marinated chicken pieces, stewed spinach and fried basmati rice with raisins and pistachios), which is much tastier than it sounds. If traditional yoghurt drinks aren't what you're after, then choose from a selection of Afghan teas or something from the impressive wine list.