As King Ludwig became more of a recluse, the more absorbed he was in his fantasy world. His elaborate Rococo palace Linderhof in the isolated mountain landscape of Graswang valley was inspired by Versailles. This tribute to French monarchy was built between 1870-78 and is the only of his building projects to ever reach completion. In front of the palace is a glorious pool and a 25m fountain splashing down on gilded nymph statues. There is a mini ‘hall of mirrors’ and a ‘self-setting’ table that would be raised and lowered from the room below to provide privacy to the king while eating (he had lost most of his teeth). The clashing colours with the extravagant golden filigree décor of this palace are very gaudy and kitsch, creating sort of a 19th century ‘Graceland effect’. Not surprisingly, this was Ludwig’s favourite home. The palace is surrounded by a beautiful landscaped park and the grounds include some fanciful buildings like a Moorish temple in Oriental style, a hunting lodge and, best of all, the Venus Grotto (closed in winter). This artificial cave and lake were built to indulge the king in his Wagner opera fantasies. He had a swan boat made so he could float around in his grotto where live musicians performed his favourite arias. He was the first Bavarian to have electricity and he had a special light display designed to reflect on the cave water to create colour effects, complete with artificially produced waves.

Getting there
Take the train to Oberammergau and then bus N°9622 to Linderhof. In winter leave early as buses only travel once per hour. Drivers can take the beautiful Alpine route, which explores the Bavarian Alps from east to west. Head in from Oberammergau to Ettal and follow the signs.