If you want the old Serbian experience minus the touristic or urban influence, this small kafana is a 15minute walk on the main boulevard east from the centre. Another example of time travel, the proprieters here still sit in the middle of the restaurant chain-smoking cigarettes and drinking Turkish coffee. And very good coffee it is too, served with lovely sweet Turkish delight. The food is decidedly eastern also, the speciality being ovčetina (big grilled lamb). A few phrases of Serbian is a must here.