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The Twelfth and the Orange Order
The
Orange Order is Northern Ireland's largest Protestant organisation, and has around 100,000 members worldwide. Its origins lie in the
1690 Battle of the Boyne when the Dutch Protestant
King William of Orange defeated his father-in-law, Catholic
King James ll of England and Vll of Scotland.
The site of the Battle of the Boyne, just outside Drogheda, Co. Meath, was recently opened as a major tourist attraction, and also features in a
Williamite Trail - an all-Ireland map detailing locations associated with the Williamite and Jacobite armies, from Carrickfergus in the north to Kinsale in the south.
In
1795 Protestants and Catholics clashed again at the
Battle of the Diamond near Portadown, Co. Armagh. Following their victory, Protestants met at
Dan Winter's House and, soon after, pledged a new oath to 'Crown and country and the Reformed religion'. The Orange Order was born. The Order sees itself as a champion of Protestantism and defender of a British Protestant monarch. It is organised into 'lodges', some of which are in former British colonies as far afield as Canada, New Zealand and Ghana.
July 12th is the most important date in the Orange calendar and marks the anniversary of King William's Battle of the Boyne victory. Orangemen and women commemorate
'The Twelfth' with colourful band and lodge parades along well-worn routes throughout NI and in Co. Donegal. This year
Banbridge,
Bangor and
Larne have been designated
flagship Twelfths with trained Welcome Hosts on hand to explain the event for tourists. In total 18 'demonstrations' will take place in NI (
Mon 13 July), including
Belfast, and Rossnowlagh in Co. Donegal (
Sat 11 July).
In recent years some parades have made world headlines as Orangemen assert their right to march along 'traditional routes' through Catholic Nationalist areas, most notably
Drumcree in Portadown and Belfast's
Lower Ormeau Road. Many Catholics vehemently oppose these parades which they regard as sectarian and intimidatory.
Orangeism and Unionism have long been bedfellows in NI's political history. Former Ulster Unionist Party leader
David Trimble and current leader
Sir Reg Empey are both in the Orange Order. However, in March 2005, the Order decided to cut its links with the UUP, ending 100 years of historical links. Former First Minister and Democratic Unionist Party leader
Ian Paisley left the Orange Order in protest in 1962 but addresses the
Independent Orange Order (established in 1903 to segregate Orangeism from politics) every July 12.
As a more secular society grows throughout NI, recent years have seen the Orange Order experience a decline in numbers. However, no matter your affiliations, if you're in Belfast on July 12 you cannot fail to witness a spectacle like no other on this island. If you want to watch the Belfast
parades, stay in the
city centre or
Lisburn Road to see small boys in Orange sashes march proudly in front of huge banners, marchers hurl batons as high as lampposts and bandsmen beat the living daylights out of gargantuan Lambeg drums.
On
July 11,
'Eleventh Night' bonfires are lit at midnight in staunchly Protestant areas. Many are massive constructions of wooden pallettes, old sofas and rubber tyres topped with Irish flags or effigies of pro-Nationalist figures. Bonfire architects battle it out to see who can build the biggest, and shifts of young guardians ensure rival builders don't steal their burnable booty.
At midnight the bonfires are set alight, often amid drunken revellery from boozed up young people. It's best to stay away but, if you really want to see these raging infernos, view the scene from afar or go with someone you know and trust. The
Shankill Road and
Milltown Road (South Belfast) bonfires are two of the city's biggest.
July 12 (or nearest Mon, if it falls on Sun as in 2009) is a NI public holiday. Many locals of all backgrounds take the 'Twelfth Fortnight' as their annual summer holiday, and banks and offices close on the day. In recent years, however, the Twelfth has passed off with little trouble and, as a result, many city centre retailers will remain open on
Mon 13 from
12:30 - 16:30 to benefit from increased visitor numbers. However, if you're visiting NI on or around July 12, always check opening times of shops, restaurants, entertainment venues etc before making big plans.
Click here and here to see more info on parades and times.
July
2009