History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas Jefferson as ‘the pure a son of liberty that I have ever known.’ Upon his passing Polish authorities demanded his body be sent from Switzerland to be interred in the Wawel Royal Crypts. Such was the country’s love of Kościuszko that the people proposed to honour him with a monument in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak and Wanda – and to make it the grandest in Kraków. With the approval of the Norbertine Sisters who granted the land, city authorities began developing an artificial burial mound to be constructed atop Bronisława Hill in Zwierzyniec. When construction began there was no lack of pomp and ceremony. First mass was held, followed by speeches; documents, heirlooms and artefacts from Kościuszko’s illustrious life were placed – as well as soil from his many battlefields, including those in America – before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages from all over Poland brought soil from their homes and villages to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound stands 34 metres high, 326 metres above sea level. A boulder from the Tatra Mountains, which on a clear day can be seen on the horizon from the top of the mound, was placed at the top with the inscription, ‘Kościuszce’ (‘To Kościuszko’).

In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities took over the territory of Zwierzyniec and went to building a brick fortress encircling the Mound with intent to use the location as a strategic lookout point. Demolishing a chapel of St. Bronisława at the site, the Austrians, in their gentility, built a new chapel, incorporating it into the stronghold. Quite contrarily, the Germans later threatened to demolish the Mound and surrounding fortifications during their WWII occupation as they set about destroying all Polish monuments and national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were destroyed, the Mound survived the war better than the country’s population, 16% of which were casualties of Nazi and Soviet bloodshed. Today the fortress has been rebuilt and significant engineering improvements have been made to the Mound to ensure its longevity, including a vital drainage system.

Climbing to the peak is exhausting work, but the panoramic views of Kraków are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic Chapel of St. Bronisława, which contains a medley of objects connected to Kościuszko's life, can also be visited and the surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a radio station, restaurant, wax museum and five additional historical exhibitions. Admission is included with the mound to all exhibits and the hours are also the same, except for two exhibits: 'Cracovian Mounds,' and 'Kościuszko - The First Chapter' (Open 09:30-16:00. From May open 09:00-19:00)

Admission 11/9zł.