Perhaps Kraków’s most forgotten square, it’s hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once equal in size and stature to Kraków’s Rynek Główny. When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski) upon the town’s establishment in 1335, this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each side than Rynek Główny) making it the second largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here that all the administrative and judicial authorities of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once was, today’s Plac Wolnica (named so since the end of the 18th century when it was granted the privilege of free trade) covers only a small fragment of the square’s original size. However, the Town Hall has managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s incorporation into Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th century. Since WWII it has housed the recommended Ethnographic Museum. Ironically, it has been the once more predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy that have keyed Kazimierz’s revival over the last decade as Plac Wolnica has become more synonymous with parking, pigeons and drunken derelicts. That is all beginning to change however, with more cafés and restaurants opening around its edges and a new pedestrian bridge connecting Kazimierz with Podgórze over the river to the south.