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Lodz introduction

Lodz introductionRynek at Manufaktura
Summer in Poland has everyone discussing one thing: the Euro 2012 football tournament that the country is co-hosting with the Ukraine. Łódź, however, finds itself in the unique position of being a major Polish city that won’t be filled with football hooligans from around Europe – teams will call Wroclaw, Gdansk, Warsaw, Krakow and Poznan home, while Łódź gets to be an oasis, a veritable football-free zone for the duration of the tournament. For tourists this is an extra reason to visit the often-overlooked city of Łódź; fewer fans means better access to all the city has to offer.

Piotrkowska street is the place to start your explorations, especially if you’re willing to spring for a rickshaw ride the length of the 4km street that plays host to most of the city’s action. Every time we take a pass down Piotrkowska we spot new businesses cropping up, and we can’t help but recommend Shotme for some of the most creative cocktails you’ll ever see (sprinkles! Milkshake shots!) and Fermentacja for the deepest selection of beers in the city. Now that you know where to imbibe we can tackle that other essential, dining out. Newcomers abound, and our favourites include Restauracja Kryształowa for authentic Silesian cuisine under glittering chandeliers and The Dorsz Fish and Chips when nothing but a classic British fish fry will do.

With the summer sun shining this is the ideal time to follow our walking tour of the Litzmannstadt Ghetto. As the second-largest ghetto during World War II (Warsaw’s was the largest) Litzmannstadt is synonymous with Łódź and was home to some of the most harrowing stories of struggle and survival, which are detailed in our Jewish Łódź section. We consider it a can’t-miss part of the city’s history.

To decompress after your historic hike consider Manufaktura, a renovated factory that is now home to a giant mall filled with entertaining distractions like an Imax screen, a museum and some great ethnic restaurants.

As always, let us know what you think about the places you’ve visited by leaving your comments on our website – lodz.inyourpocket.com – and send us some love at editor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy your visit to Łódź!

A little about Łódź to get you started

Your first lesson in Polish: Łódź may look like it’s pronounced Lódź, but it most certainly isn’t. You are now in Woodge, and three hundred years ago the bar or cafe you find yourself sitting in would probably have been a wooden hut with a leak in the roof. In terms of age Łódź is one of the youngest cities in Poland, and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution, which explains its oft-used nickname, ‘The Manchester of Poland’. You may ask why anyone would go on holiday to Manchester? And why in heavens name go on holiday to Poland’s version of Manchester? But while Łódź cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Kraków a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the country's finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all here. First mentioned in the 14th century it was the industrial revolution that saw the population balloon, and the city emerge as Poland’s youngest metropolis. The birth of the textile industry saw Łódź dubbed The Promised Land, with thousands flocking from central Europe, England and even Switzerland to make their fortunes. WWII saw the city's rich ethnic balance destroyed, the Jewish population butchered, the Germans exiled and the Russians heading back whence they came. Now, in spite of massive unemployment, Łódź remains an important cog in the Polish wheel, and the Manufaktura project ranks as one of the most impressive urban regeneration projects in Europe. More surprisingly, the city is also at the heart of Polish art and counter-culture. The famous film school, founded in 1948 as a pet project of Stalin, has nurtured the talent of Polanski, Wajda and Kieślowski while ul. Piotrkowska, Europe’s longest pedestrian street, rates as one of Poland’s most famous party streets. Whatever your pleasures enjoy the city.


 

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