Welcome to Łódź

Well we’ve done it. We’ve finally tackled, in the simplest way we know how, the questions we get most often about Łódź: how do you pronounce it (woodge), why do you pronounce it that way (those mischievous Polish ‘ó’ and ‘Ł’ are to blame) and what in the world does it mean (“a small boat.” No, really). Read more here about the toughest four letters in the Polish language and impress your friends with your deep knowledge of all things Łódź.
 
But we didn’t stop there. Once you’ve grasped that you’re in woodge, a task that we hope won’t take more than a few minutes of practice, what should you do? This issue we’re directing visitors to OFF Piotrkowska, a conglomeration of businesses tucked inside an old cotton mill building that is, quite literally, just off bustling Piotrkowska. There you’ll find a unique mix of clubs, bars, galleries, studios and all manner of interesting doors to peek through. Consider it a good counterpoint to the stylized, slick creation that is Manufaktura on the other side of town. 
 
While winter may put Łódź in the classic grim, lighting we expect of a rundown former industrial center, summer is the time to get out and explore the streets. Wander past Księży Młyn, one of the city’s first mills – it’s currently closed, but we promise the outside is worth your wander. Or follow our thorough walking tour of the Litzmannstadt Ghetto, a sad chapter in Łódź’s history. The Litzmannstadt Ghetto was the second largest ghetto established during World War II (the first being Warsaw’s) and at the outbreak of the war one-third of the city’s 672,000 residents were Jews. Click over to our section about Jewish Łódź for an in-depth look at what life was like in Łódź’ for the Jewish population at this time.
 
After all that walking it’s understandable if your legs get tired and your throat yearns for a drink. When that happens its time to get thee to Ul. Piotrkowska, Europe’s longest pedestrian street, for a well-deserved break. In fact, you can traverse the street via rickshaw for just 5zl and take your leisurely time in choosing which pub to patronize (we’ve got a helpful list for that).

As always we sincerely hope you enjoy your time in Łódź and the guide we have put together. Be sure to like us on Facebook (facebook.com/lodzinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (Twitter.com/lodziyp) for all the latest on what’s happening in the city, and you can leave comments about all the venues listed here (and more) on our website at inyourpocket.com/Poland/lodz. And of course we welcome your direct feedback at editor_poland@inyourpocket.com

A little about Łódź to get you started

Your first lesson in Polish: Łódź may look like it’s pronounced Lódź, but it most certainly isn’t. You are now in Woodge, and three hundred years ago the bar or cafe you find yourself sitting in would probably have been a wooden hut with a leak in the roof. In terms of age Łódź is one of the youngest cities in Poland, and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution, which explains its oft-used nickname, ‘The Manchester of Poland’. You may ask why anyone would go on holiday to Manchester? And why in heavens name go on holiday to Poland’s version of Manchester? But while Łódź cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Kraków a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the country's finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all here. First mentioned in the 14th century it was the industrial revolution that saw the population balloon, and the city emerge as Poland’s youngest metropolis. The birth of the textile industry saw Łódź dubbed The Promised Land, with thousands flocking from central Europe, England and even Switzerland to make their fortunes. WWII saw the city's rich ethnic balance destroyed, the Jewish population butchered, the Germans exiled and the Russians heading back whence they came. Now, in spite of massive unemployment, Łódź remains an important cog in the Polish wheel, and the Manufaktura project ranks as one of the most impressive urban regeneration projects in Europe. More surprisingly, the city is also at the heart of Polish art and counter-culture. The famous film school, founded in 1948 as a pet project of Stalin, has nurtured the talent of Polanski, Wajda and Kieślowski while ul. Piotrkowska, Europe’s longest pedestrian street, rates as one of Poland’s most famous party streets. Whatever your pleasures enjoy the city.