The most stunning (and oldest) site on Ostrów Tumski is the building it’s named for, Peter and Paul Cathedral. More commonly called the Poznan Cathedral, the original version was erected in 968 on the same spot as today’s existing Gothic structure. The building itself has been destroyed, rebuilt and remodeled numerous times, and every renovation added a new style to the Cathedral: a 1622 fire resulted in a Baroque finish, while a 1722 fire meant a change to the neo-Classicist style. During the 1945 battle to liberate Ostrów Tumski 65 percent of the cathedral was (once again) burned down. This tragedy proved prophetic, as the fire exposed the cathedral’s Gothic elements and led to it being restored in the manner visitors see today.

Inside the Cathedral, which is still operational and welcomes visitors, are a number of elements of interest. Surrounding the interior are 12 different chapels, including the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament. This chapel has several outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones of the Gorka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbienski, to be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the sarcophagus of Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry. You can also see these two monarchs in all their glory thanks to a bronze monument that depicts the two kings together. Above the monument is a painting by January Suchodolski showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland, destroying pagan idols.

The eye-catching high altar at the center of the Cathedral is a polyptych created by 14th and 15th century Silesian artists depicting Our Lady surrounded by 14 female saints like St. Catherine and St. Barbara. The altar’s outer wings feature eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, which originated at the famed Nuremburg workshop of Herman and Peter Vischer. The slabs were originally on the Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were moved and mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and are back on display. One of the newer elements of Poland’s oldest Cathedral is the giant 52-pipe organ at the rear of the building, which perfectly frames the large stained glass window.

The cathedral’s crypt is certainly worth a look. Visitors can feast their eyes on the remains of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque versions of the Cathedral and a 10th century baptismal font most likely used to baptize the first Polish sovereign and his subjects. The Cathedral also unearthed two tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an exhibition of various pieces found during the excavation like plates and stones, and it also leads to crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware that the lights in the crypt are motion-activated, so if you stand too long admiring a certain tomb, you’re bound to suddenly end up in the dark.

Crypt entrance 3/2zł, rest of the Cathedral free.