So which to choose? Most foreigners will keep to the market square, and while the views and vibe are super, you’ll find that every establishment on the market square charges 50% more for beer. Kraków's courtyards are more interesting and one of the best is Buddha Bar where DJs spin records under the stars through a narrow passageway across from the Mickiewicz monument. Other Old Town notables include Bunkier - a positively huge terrace on the Planty, Klub Re, Viva La Pinta, and the popular nook known as Doubting Thomas Lane (ul. Św. Tomasza). Track down to Kazimierz, however, to enjoy alfresco drinking at its finest; Plac Nowy is a no-brainer, but tables can be hard to find - note that Le Scandale has plenty of space hidden in its courtyard. For two of the district's most atmospheric and evocative gardens head to Mleczarnia or Eszeweria. Also, don’t forget ul. Szeroka - far less lively than the rest of Kazimierz, but less grubby as well, and it catches sun later into the evening.
For sheer size, it's Stara Zajezdnia - Kazimierz's old tram depot, the hipster-lined alleys of Tytano - the former tobacco factory, or riverside drinking at Forum Przestrzenie - the eroding PRL-era hotel.
To get the most out of Budda you need to visit in summer when adjoining courtyard gardens transform into an al fresco dance arena. On those chillier evenings make for one of the two the warmly lit crimson interiors on either end of the courtyard, the one