'People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956' is an exhibit that endeavours to recount the misery and cruelty of foreign domination and totalitarian injustice in Kraków. Sponsored by the History Museum, the exhibit can be found alongside the corollary Former Gestapo Cells which are free of charge and impressive in their own right. You’ll find the exhibits just across from Plac Inwalidów, ironically housed in a building which was originally the headquarters for an organization that celebrated Polish nationalism and sought to recover territories outside of Poland with native Polish populations. Both exhibits are accessed through the interior courtyard behind a tunnel decorated with chilling black and white mug shots of former prisoners held here during Nazi occupation. In what may be more than ironic coincidence, the hostel situated just above the exhibits is entitled “Freedom”. Inside is a meticulously documented record of the era of Nazi and Communist tyranny in the city, replete with audio recreations of interrogations and mass executions. There is a small model of an interrogation room and a plethora of short bios and histories of the most notorious arrests, tortures, imprisonments and executions, culminating with the last Communist show trials in the mid-1950’s. Quotations from victims are juxtaposed poignantly with propaganda posters from both tyrannies.

The Former Gestapo Cells are literally the prison cells that housed mostly political prisoners during that era. Many writings and carved inscriptions are still visible on the walls and even the illegible ones have been transcribed and enlarged giving a grim first-hand account of lives (and deaths) of political prisoners in these very rooms. There are no fairy-tale endings here, so come prepared for an excellent but sobering and bluntly tragic display of the history through which Kraków has suffered. It is absolutely worth a visit and is only about a 15-minute walk up Karmelicka Street from the Planty.

Admission 6/5zł, Tue free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free.