Krakowskie Przedmieście

Visits to Poland’s most prestigious street, Krakowskie Przedmieście, start by the Royal Castle, next to the sabre rattling statue of King Sigismund. A popular meeting point with lovers and buskers alike we’d suggest you kick off your walk by impressing your date with the geeky story behind the escalator. From there head to St. Anne’s a neo-classical effort that survived the war but came within a whisker of collapse when work began on the W-Z tunnel running beneath it. The 1949 tunnel project caused several landslides and it took a team of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations and stabilise the soil. But the real hero of the hour was Romauld Cebertowicz, a professor who invented a way of solidifying the soil by way of directing electric currents into it. The interiors of St. Anne’s house numerous intricate details, but the real reason for visiting is the ‘taras widokowy’, a viewing platform on top of the next door tower.
Next, make a beeline for the Mickiewicz monument that honours Poland’s best loved bard. This statue was erected in 1898, the centenary of his birth. Unveiled at a time of Imperial Russian repression the very creation of his likeness was regarded as something of a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind is one of the Warsaw’s biggest mysteries. Everyone knows the pink building with that great big chunk missing from its facade, but what the devil is it? Built in 1784 to serve as a traveller's inn this mysterious structure is actually student digs, as well as home to a branch of the WBK bank and a music shop. The 17th century Camelite Church next door is one of the original examples of the classicist style to be found in Poland, and comes topped off with a sea green orb representing the world.
Next up it’s the Presidential Palace, that fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th century became the famed venue for lavish society banquets. None were more celebrated than the party held to celebrate the coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789; over two million zloty was spent on entertaining 4,000 guests, a sum which must have been unheard of in those days. But it was money well spent; Poniatowski would prove to be one of Poland’s finest monarchs, and the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognized as Europe’s first.
When Poland regained independence in 1918 the reconstructed building was commandeered to serve as home to the Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers. When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he spent so much time pottering around admiring the architectural details he was late for his meeting with the Polish Foreign Minister. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw pact – the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO – was ratified within its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the communists and opposition were held here, paving the way for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as the official home of the Polish president.
Next door it’s the Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, long regarded as one of Warsaw’s most exclusive hotels. Tread through the marble lobby and you’ll learn why; etched in brass by reception you’ll find the names of dozens of celebrities who’ve stayed here, including Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich. An even more interesting story can be found opposite, namely inside ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13. A superb bygone creation the Hotel Europejski closed its doors in 2006 following nearly 130 years of service. Built on the site of a guesthouse called the Gerlach the Europejski was funded by publisher Aleksander Przeździecki, and inspired by the designs he had seen on his world travels. Touched up by architects like Henryk Marconi it came to be known as Warsaw’s first modern hotel. The hotel, which once greeted The Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and Indira Ghandi might have closed, but its current owners have big plans. The lower floors are already occupied by trendy spots like U Kucharzy and there’s plans afoot to develop the upper floors into luxury apartments, offices and a prestigious hotel. Heading back on yourself don’t miss a quick look in at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15. Now home to the Ministry of Culture and Art this is where Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at a ball held in his honour. One thing that won’t have escaped your notice at this stage is the preponderance of young people, some of them carrying books, others staggering out of bars. Yep, you’ve guessed it, the university is here, its main campus lying behind the grand gateway at number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as Villa Regia, was remodelled and renovated several times, before finally being earmarked as the home of Warsaw’s new university. Established in 1819 and opened for class a couple of years later the uni had a tough time under Russian rule. Closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar had been placated enough to the extent he rubber stamped the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the roll call the university stands out as the largest in Poland, as well as one of the best - a title hotly contested with Kraków’s Jagiellonian Uni. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning hack Ryszard Kapusciński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and poet Julian Tuwim. Having failed in your attempt to get a few phone numbers from the student body cross the street making a line for the Church of the Holy Cross. Much has been written about this place, so we won’t add anything other than make sure you put it on your list of unmissables. Finally, at the end of KP, it’s Copernicus himself and his statue has also played its part in Warsaw’s recent history.

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