Small fruit and vegetable stalls can be found across the city, but the daily pazari i ri ('new market') truly captures the spirit of the country in a messy explosion of colour, people, fresh produce and trash. Apart from fruit, vegetables, fish and meat, the stalls display a dozen varieties of olives, cheeses, wines and raki throughout small squares and snaking alleyways. Animal rights activists won't like the sight of bunches of live chickens slung over bicycle handlebars, but at least these chicks didn't grow up in Guantanamo poultry farms. Early morning is the best time of day to witness Balkan-style trading and haggling.