Depicted as the little doll’s house in Gunter Grass’ Call of the Toad, Vinifera is one of the great disappointments of night time Gdańsk. From the outside, graffiti squiggles aside, this riverside lodge could play a part in Wind in the Willows. Inside, and in spite of regular closures and renovations, it transpires to be nothing more than a dusty, depressing bar clogged up with plastic flowers and mirrors whose reflections have been distorted over time.