The glories of Gdańsk's old town are known to all, and even the district of Oliwa, with its magnificent cathedral and its picturesque parkland, is cropping up in more and more tourist itineraries. Wrzeszcz, on the other hand, remains a bit of a destination non grata for all but the committed tourist. True, having a name that sounds like someone talking with sausages in their mouth does not help, but that's no reason to bypass this corner of the city, particularly if you are a fan of Nobel-winning writer Gunter Grass' work (we have a series of sites worth seeing connected to him and his work).

With a population of 65,000 this is Gdańsk's largest district and after years of decline is enjoying a phoenix like revival. Economically speaking the situation has never been rosier. New commercial investment has breathed life into the area, while the city's busiest mall - Galeria Baltycka, is further evidence of a suburb enjoying a boom. Shopping aside, there's more to investigate than one might imagine.

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