When US General Dwight Eisenhower visited Warsaw immediately after the war he was moved to comment, ‘I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction’.Buried under twenty million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled a shattered shell; over half the population had been killed, and 85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre, a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using prewar sketches, paintings and photographs the Old Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable expense of Poland’s ‘recovered territories’. Szczecin, for instance, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic buildings in order to ‘donate’ an estimated 27 million bricks to the Warsaw rebuilding program. So too Wrocław, which at one stage was sending a staggering one million bricks to Warsaw per day; ‘He who loves Wrocław, loves Warsaw as well’ pined a propaganda tune of the era. But forget the other cities, look at the results in front of you. Although it’s barely half a century old Warsaw’s historic quarter is an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city that refused to die.
Most visits to the Old Town begin on plac Zamkowy (B-2), and if you’re Polish then right under the statue of Zygmunt. There isn’t a more popular meeting spot in the city, and there’s not a minute of the day when the steps to the statue aren’t besieged by dating couples or banjo playing irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt III’s son, Władysław IV, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla, and the figure of Zygmunt ranks as Poland’s second oldest monument - beaten into runners up spot by the Neptun Fountain in Gdańsk. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence that was first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. One fact that can’t be disputed is his good fortune. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949. The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and you can find it lying on its side side in spitting distance of the Royal Castle.
Moving forward head down Świętojańska to run a gauntlet of buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys. Somewhere amid the melee you’ll spot the Cathedral (see Churches), well worth popping into, not least to check out the Baruczkowski Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned for its mysterious powers. Famed in particular for its crypt this neo-Gothic masterpiece also contains artworks courtesy of Wit Stwosz, as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered from a remote-controlled German tank used to attack the cathedral in 1944. The overall effect is quite something, so it’s no surprise many people bypass the Jesuit Church right next door, a super renaissance building described in detail in our Churches section.
It’s hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you was just a skeletal set of ruins, but that’s exactly what it was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where some black and white photographs show aerial views of the war time devastation. The Old Town’s subsequent inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna, or Beer Street as it translates. Although there’s no evidence of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martin’s Church on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annihilated during the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always been linked with theological and political dissent, and this was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship and secret meetings. As with the rest of Old Town, the real beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and don’t miss the portal at number 6. Known locally as Pod Gołębiami (Under the pigeons - and housing a ‘restaurant’ of the same name), this place acquired its name after the war, when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around the post-war debris.
Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was formerly home to a small square used primarily for executions. Nicknamed Piekarka this is where witches and other ne’er do wells would be burned at the stake, hung or have their heads lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old city walls, check out the sword waving figure of Jan Kiliński (see Monuments), a legendary Polish patriot and a hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. The man who gave his name to that Uprising, Tadeusz Kościuszko (the same lad who would fight with distinction in the American War of Independence, and would later have Australia’s highest peak named after him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the street running at a 90o angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s original Jewish Quarter back in medieval times. Set in a white arched building at the end of this street is Pub 14, a dark, multi-floored bar which has proved the undoing of more than a couple of student types. Directly behind the wall, and onto Podwale, you’ll find one of Warsaw’s most photographed landmarks; The Monument to the Little Insurgent. Depicting a boy weighed down by a machine gun and outsized helmet the monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who fought and died in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and it’s not rare to find the bronze statue surrounded by school groups on their day out to the capital.
Follow Podwale as it curves nor thwards, and if you’re feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25 (see Where to Eat). Resembling a typical European beer hall this place is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and cabbage practically forklifted onto tables. At this stage it’s fair to say you’ll probably be feeling like a python who swallowed a pig, so waddle with great care and attention to the Barbakan building, making sure to avoid those annoying street dudes who’ll try and lead you to their executioners block to have your pic snapped. Crowning the set of defensive walls which once protected the city is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund structure that dates from 1548 and was apparently the work of a Venetian architect. Today it serves as a bridge between Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenagers drinking super-strength lager. In summer tours of the interior are available, and well worth the look if you don’t have an aversion to confined spaces. Interestingly, the moat that pins the Old Town in is another relatively recent addition to Warsaw. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th century when the defences became obsolete, and the walls were incorporated into the dense tangle of townhouses that mushroomed up around. Fragments of these forgotten defences were unearthed in 1937, and a decade later, with Warsaw in ruins, architects took the decision to restore and expose these ancient walls.
It’s at this point you’ll find your nose pointing straight down ul. Nowomiejska, a street revered for Warsaw’s best ice cream. Continue forward to reach the Old Town Square (Rynek). No matter how often you see it, it can’t fail to leave you breathless. The burgher houses that line the square are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details on the facades. Measuring 90 metres by 73 this square is Warsaw’s defining highlight, and presents unlimited ways to squander your money - tourist junk stores, crappy restaurants populated with stuffed animals, and even an Irish pub on the corner. One place that is worth popping into, even if it’s just to steal the cutlery, is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this place into Warsaw’s top winery. Today the restaurant is in the hands of the Gesslers, and their guest list reads as something of a Who’s Who of stage and screen. Culture vulture or not, don’t miss the chance to visit the Historical Museum of Warsaw (see Museums). Not only will you come away with an encyclopaedic knowledge of the city, but you might even end up trading blows and insults with one of the curators who snoops in your wake.
Back outside take stock of one of Poland’s finest town squares. In the 15th century this was occupied by a town hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Instead, today you’ll find a couple of water pumps dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw’s best loved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaid’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. You’re also liable to run into a platoon of street artists. Most famous of the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird, cloaked little man who plays one of Europe’s last music boxes with a parrot alongside him. But for real comedy gold check out the mime artists who stand in frozen posture - a few years back one such chap, dressed as a monk, collapsed after a marathon booze binge leaving his giant genitals exposed to the world.
Leaving the square head down ul. Kamienne Schodki. Not only is this the longest stairwell in Old Town, it’s also where Napoleon stood in 1806, pensively staring eastward on the eve of his campaign on the plains of Russia. From here walk south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach the grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River Wisła. Known as Gnojna Góra (Compost Hill), this small knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one stage was also renowned for its healing properties - this is where the stupid rich would come to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis. Doesn’t work, we’ve tried.
Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a graveyard, this small little square features a cracked cathedral bell recovered from the war time debris, as well as what is touted as the world’s narrowest house at number 20/22. Close by note the covered walkway linking the cathedral to the castle. This was built after a failed assassination attempt on Zygmunt III. The King escaped unmolested, but the hapless hitman, Michal Piekarski, found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and then chopped into pieces with an axe. And on that happy note, consider your tour at an end.
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