A truly traditional restaurant, where you can eat sitting at low tables in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an old Ottoman-era house. Surrounded by shelves with dishes, strings of garlic and peppers and old photographs, it’s best to allow the waiters to suggest a succession of appetisers and mains. The food is fresh and delicious (try the lakror në saç oven-baked pie), unforgettable even after washing it all down with several glasses of their home-made raki. They recently opened a lovely little garden terrace as well. Find it down a tiny alley on the north side of the road near Sheshi Avni Rushtemi.