Featuring three floors of so-called ‘pavilions’ dedicated to individual social and political periods of Albanian history from its very beginnings through to the communist period, this highly recommended museum has beautiful and unexpected surprises in abundance. Among the expected felt hats, pointy shoes and photographs of Ottoman-era Tirana before Enver Hoxha’s ideology and the bulldozers wrecked it find some real treats, among them an eerie red room hung with hundreds of Orthodox icons and the spectacularly named Pavilion of the National Liberation Antifascist War, which remains the only place in the city where you’ll find information on the amazing story of the Holocaust in Albania. The gift shop on the way out sells the usual tawdry nonsense alongside a handful of things that might be worth buying as gifts or souvenirs. The famous mosaic hanging over the entrance is slowly falling to pieces and it’s only a matter of time until the only safe way of entering the building is with a hard hat on your head. With the addition of a few more explanations in English, this excellent museum could become a genuinely outstanding one.